EU REACH Nickel Release Rules for Jewellery Wholesale Buyers (EN 1811 Explained)
EU law does not ban nickel in jewellery; it limits how much nickel the metal releases onto skin. Under REACH Annex XVII entry 27, jewellery in direct and prolonged contact with skin (earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings, watch cases) must release no more than 0.5 µg of nickel per cm² per week. Post assemblies that go into pierced ears or other piercings have a stricter limit of 0.2 µg/cm²/week. Release is measured with the EN 1811 test method. Lead and cadmium are limited separately: 0.05% (500 mg/kg) lead in jewellery parts and 0.01% (100 mg/kg) cadmium in metal parts.
For a wholesale buyer selling into the EU, these three numbers decide whether a line can legally go on the shelf. This guide explains what they mean, why "nickel-free stainless steel" is a misunderstanding, and what documents to keep on file.
Release, not content: why stainless steel can pass
Nickel is one of the main alloying elements of austenitic stainless steel. Grade 304 contains roughly 8-10.5% nickel and grade 316 roughly 10-14%, so no stainless steel is nickel-free. What protects the wearer is the chromium oxide layer that forms on the surface and keeps nickel locked in the alloy. That is why the EU regulates release rather than content, and why a well-made 316 piece can measure below the detection limit in an EN 1811 test while still containing over 10% nickel.
The test itself immerses the article in artificial sweat for a week and measures the nickel that dissolves, per square centimetre of skin-contact surface. Results come with a measurement uncertainty, so EN 1811 sets the pass line slightly above the legal figure: a result up to 0.88 µg/cm²/week is treated as compliant with the 0.5 limit, and below 0.35 µg/cm²/week for the 0.2 post limit. Labs often print the 0.88 figure in the "limit" column for that reason; the legal limit remains 0.5.
The limits at a glance
All three restrictions sit in Annex XVII of the EU REACH regulation, and the UK applies the same figures under UK REACH.
| Substance | REACH Annex XVII entry | Limit for jewellery | How it is tested |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nickel (prolonged skin contact) | Entry 27 | 0.5 µg/cm²/week release | EN 1811 (EN 12472 wear first for coated items) |
| Nickel (posts in pierced ears) | Entry 27 | 0.2 µg/cm²/week release | EN 1811 |
| Lead | Entry 63 | 0.05% by weight (500 mg/kg) | Acid digestion and ICP analysis |
| Cadmium | Entry 23 | 0.01% by weight (100 mg/kg) in metal parts | Acid digestion and ICP analysis |
Coatings matter too. For plated or PVD pieces, entry 27 requires release to stay within the limit for at least two years of normal use, which is why labs abrade coated samples to EN 12472 before running EN 1811.
What this means for people with nickel allergy
Nickel allergy is the most common contact allergy in Europe, and the release limits exist to cut the number of new cases. Staying under the limit lowers the risk for most wearers, but it does not mean every sensitive customer will tolerate a piece. Medical guidance from DermNet and the NHS is clear that anyone with a known allergy and a reaction should stop wearing the item and see a doctor. Retail copy should describe the test result, not promise that a product is "safe for all skin".
Documents an EU retailer should keep
- A test report per material and supplier covering EN 1811 nickel release, lead and cadmium, from an accredited laboratory, with a report number you can verify.
- A record of which products the report represents: same alloy, same supplier, same finish.
- Extra tests for higher-risk items: posts for pierced ears (0.2 limit) and plated pieces (EN 12472 plus EN 1811).
- Supplier and invoice records so a market surveillance authority can trace the batch. Non-compliant jewellery regularly appears in the EU Safety Gate (RAPEX) alerts, mostly for nickel, cadmium and lead.
How to verify this when buying wholesale
Ask every supplier for an EN 1811 result with a verifiable report number, plus lead and cadmium figures, before placing an order. As a worked example, Jewena publishes its third-party report CTT26090107358EN from CTT, a CNAS-accredited laboratory (ILAC-MRA), issued in October 2026: on its 316 stainless steel, EN 1811 nickel release was not detected (below 0.05 µg/cm²/week, against the 0.5 limit), lead measured 22 mg/kg against 500, cadmium was not detected against 100, and the composition passed ASTM A959 for 316. The full report and the laboratory's verification QR code are on the Jewena test reports page.
FAQ
Is nickel-free stainless steel jewellery a real thing?
No. Common jewellery steels such as 304 and 316 contain roughly 8-14% nickel. The relevant question for EU sale is nickel release under EN 1811, which a good 316 piece can keep below the detection limit.
Why does my lab report show 0.88 instead of 0.5?
EN 1811 accounts for measurement uncertainty, so a result up to 0.88 µg/cm²/week is assessed as compliant with the 0.5 legal limit. The legal limit itself is still 0.5.
Do the same rules apply in the UK?
Yes. UK REACH keeps the same nickel, lead and cadmium restrictions for jewellery, so a compliant EU test report covers the UK market as well.
Does a passed nickel test mean a piece is hypoallergenic?
It means nickel release was below the legal limit for the sample tested. That lowers risk for most wearers but it is not a medical promise for people with nickel allergy.
For sensitive-skin ranges, see earrings for sensitive-skin buyers, or read how to verify a supplier's lab test report.